A garnet doublet dress ring
An unusual dress ring containing five oval stones that have the hue and colour of cornflower blue sapphires. However, unusually these are in fact garnets. You can read below just how these are created.
This ring dates to around 1890, the stones graduate in size from 4 to 5mm, all claw set. The head spreads to 16mm width, height 6mm, depth 4mm, weight 3grams. No hallmark was required for this period, tests as 18 carat gold.
The colours are so like sapphires we had to have them tested by GemLab to confirm their status. If they were sapphires the price would be nearer to £1500, but its such a pretty ring as it is. Size J 1/2. We should be able to size up a couple of sizes.
Garnet Topped Doublets (or GTDs) have a thin slice of red garnet fused to the surface of molten glass – no glue is used. Once it has been cut and polished the join line may be seen in the crown facets of the stone rather than at the girdle as you might spot in other composite stones.
As garnet is harder than glass – 7.5 as opposed to 6 – it makes the table of the stone more resistant to wear and may have natural garnet inclusions giving the appearance of a natural stone on first glance.
First used around 1850, they may be found in antique jewellery imitating emeralds, sapphires or rubies, depending on the colour of the glass used. Interesting that the red of the garnet does not affect the perceived colour of the stone, for example, the red garnet and blue glass do not look like a purple stone.
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Age or Designation
Victorian (1839-1901)
Precious Stone
GARNET DOUBLET
Ring Size
J 1/2
Metal Type
Gold
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