Apart from antique cut diamonds as discussed in History of diamonds part 1, there are several other types of modern diamond cuts that are popular in the jewellery industry today.
From the Old European to the Rise of the Brilliant
The first time I held an Old European cut diamond, I was struck less by its perfection than by its warmth. The facets were chunkier, the symmetry less precise than a modern stone, but when it caught the light it gave off a glow that felt almost alive. That is the charm of antique diamonds – they were cut by hand, with the craftsman’s eye rather than a machine’s calibration, and each carries its own character.
At Charles Hart Jewellers, our family has worked with these stones for over two centuries. We’ve handled Georgian foiled-back diamonds, Victorian cluster rings, Edwardian pendants with Old European cuts, and the bold brilliance of 1920s Art Deco designs. Each diamond we’ve seen tells its own story of the era it came from, and together they trace the history of jewellery itself.
The Old Mine Cut
The Old Mine cut was one of the earliest attempts to shape diamonds into brilliance. Squarish in outline, with a high crown and a large culet, these stones scatter light in a way that feels soft and romantic. When we show customers Old Mine cut rings in our shop, they’re often surprised at how much charm lies in their imperfections – they don’t sparkle in the same way as a laser-cut modern stone, but they carry a sense of warmth that many collectors find irresistible.
The Old European Cut
By the 19th century, diamond cutting had advanced, and the Old European cut became the dominant style. Rounder in shape, with more symmetry and a slightly lower crown, it offered greater brilliance while still retaining the hand-finished appeal. We often point out to collectors how these stones bridge the gap between the older Mine cuts and the modern Brilliant – they carry both history and fire.
One Edwardian pendant we handled, set with a cluster of Old Europeans, had a glow that was softer than any modern brilliant. Customers often describe them as “romantic” stones, their sparkle gentler, as if lit by candlelight rather than electric glare.
The Brilliant Cut Diamond
By the early 20th century, new cutting technology allowed for the design we now recognise as the Brilliant cut – 58 facets arranged to maximise fire and brilliance. It quickly became the standard, and with good reason: its light return is unmatched. Yet for collectors, those early brilliants from the 1920s and 1930s hold a special appeal. They show slight quirks – thicker girdles, open culets – which make them distinct from modern, factory-perfect stones.
We once had a 1930s Deco bracelet set with early brilliants. Its crisp geometric design and sparkling stones gave it a modern feel for its time, and even now it retains a bold, stylish presence.
Why Collectors Treasure Antique Cuts
When customers handle an Old Mine cut or an early Brilliant in our shop, they often comment on how different it feels from a modern diamond. Each cut carries a reminder of the tools and tastes of its time.” Customers often remark that holding an antique diamond feels like holding time itself.
FAQs About Antique Diamond Cuts
Q: Are antique diamond cuts valuable?
Yes. Collectors pay a premium because these cuts are scarce, and because the workmanship is impossible to reproduce today.
Q: Can old mine or old European cuts be reset into modern jewellery?
They can, and some jewellers do. But in our experience, most collectors prefer to keep them in their original settings, since the mount and the stone together tell the full story of the piece. That said, we’ve also seen some striking modern designs built around antique stones.
Q: Why do some people prefer antique cuts over modern brilliants?
Because they have personality. Modern cuts are precise, dazzling, and uniform. Antique cuts, by contrast, reflect the hand of the cutter the slightly asymmetrical facets, the broad flashes of light details that remind you they were made by craftsmen, not machines.
Final Thoughts
At Vintage Tom, we’ve always believed that diamonds carry more than brilliance; they carry memory. Whether it’s a Georgian foiled-back stone, a Victorian Old Mine cut, or a Deco-era brilliant, every antique diamond offers something modern stones can’t: a glimpse into the artistry and spirit of the time in which it was made.
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